It doesn't sound like it would be sturdy, but it works wonders (and is cheap if you buy a 10 pack of the cheap stuff) This project needs a hip belt to work correctly since the weight will cause the whole thing to tip forward.
#Magic mirror shrek zip
On one I used some zip ties and a lot of electrical tape, the other is just attached with electrical tape. I attached two pieces of 3/4" CPVC to the pack frame to act as attachment points. It came from a surplus store (Not military surplus, they charge a lot more than normal surplus stores) and I discarded the bag portion of the backpack. I'm using an external-frame backpack frame for my setup. It's mostly made of 1/2" pipe, but those two crossbars are 3/4" and are where the mirror itself will attach as well as the harness. Expanding foam works well to make the attachment. It's not that sturdy on its own, but by attaching it to cardboard you create an extremely sturdy structure. CPVC has a few major advantages for making a frame: It's light weight, it's cheap, it's easy to assemble, and there are tons of joint options out there so you don't have to get creative with ways to connect two pieces. After having a lot of success on my Pacman costume I decided to build the wall frame out of CPVC pipe. This way I can remove the LCD easily by simply unplugging it. I also chose to run the wires on the mirror frame, not on the LCD or the mounting bracket. There is some electrical tape on there, but it's only there to help keep some of the wires neat. I also soldered up the wires and put heat-shrink on all of the connections to prevent any risk of shorting or tape coming off. The holders have little holes in the ends of them, so I also ran some steel wire through each one and tied it of to screws so the silicon isn't the only thing holding them in place, and if it fails the wire should keep them from falling off. I used the same clear silicon to hold them in place that I used for the plexi it seems like it should be a good choice to bond to the slippery plastic of the battery holders as well as the wood. I attached the battery holders to the frame. All of the batteries are rated a 2000 mAh, so the whole thing is good for 4000 mAh. Right now it's got two banks of ten series-connected 1.2V NiMH batteries run in parallel. I'm expecting between 2:40 and 3 hours on the highest brightness setting. I finished a battery drain test with all 20 batteries installed and at the lowest brightness managed to get 3 hours and 45 minutes out of the thing.
They are rated at 1.2 volts, 2000 milliamp hours. I’m using el-cheapo NiMH batteries from Menards for this. The other is to use smaller rechargeable cells (I tested straight AA batteries, but it appears that they can’t deliver the required current as quickly as it’s needed). My first practical option is to use a sealed lead acid battery (the kind you find in a computer battery backup), which is the cheapest but also the most cumbersome solution.
Since my screen draws 1.3 amps I’m going to need some serious power. I filled the frame with (too much) expanding foam and pressed the wooden frame into it, and let everything cure.īatteries are the next big concern. To begin with, I started with the flimsy plastic picture frame, glued in the plexiglass, and built a wooden reinforcing frame. I took everything over to our local maker space and got to work. A new one with local dimming would have made for a much nicer final product, but that would have meant buying something brand new just to tear it apart.
#Magic mirror shrek full
The only downside is that it is an old and inefficient monitor, so it draws 1.3 amps at full brightness, which will make life difficult when it comes to batteries. This takes 12V DC in, which makes it a very easy unit to work with. I used a 15” 4:3 monitor, and because that’s the older style and I’m cheap, it’s a pretty shoddy screen.
After four stores I got lucky, and someone had even misplaced (or stolen) the power supply so they gave me the monitor for half price, which ended up being a total of $20. Most LCD’s take A/C directly, but I didn’t feel like trying to find a suitable place on the controller board to tap in with low voltage DC so I went looking for one that used an external power supply, just like a laptop does. Next I needed an LCD screen, so I went pawn shopping.
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